It is a cliché that one can eat all of a pig except squeal. That is certainly true but today most of us live “high off the hog” and generally partake only of the loin, ribs, and ham. Bacon and pork rinds are the notable exceptions. While bacon is popular everywhere, pork rinds are usually associated with the South. More is the shame because they are a delightful snack especially suitable for those on a low-carbohydrate diet. Traditionally pork rinds are deep-fried but in this recipe from the irrepressible Paule Deen they are done in the oven. She uses ham skin but I make mine from the rind I cut from the pork belly I use for bacon. I do not think it makes a great deal of difference which you use. Note, though, that these are a bit chewier than commercial pork rinds. The taste makes a bit of extra chewing well worthwhile.
Ingredients
Pork skin
Salt
Method
Preheat oven to 325°F (160°C). Cut the pork skin into strips about an inch (2 cm) wide and three inches (75 mm) long. Spread the rinds on a sheet pan, sprinkle with salt (I use kosher salt for the irony), and bake until crispy, about three hours. Cool on paper towels or a cooking rack.
Save the rendered fat for cooking but remember that it is a bit salty.
Nothing says summertime like hamburgers on the grill. And as far as I am concerned a burger is really only as good as the bun it is served on. Here in Binghamton we are fortunate to have several great bakeries that turn out superb rolls and buns. But some days, like today, I am just too lazy to make the trek to the supermarket—all two miles of it! Using a heavy-duty stand mixer making a batch of rolls from scratch only takes about 15 minutes of work. The rest of the time is just waiting, more or less patiently, for the yeast to do its magic.
I adapted this recipe from one posted on the King Arthur Flour website.
| Ingredients | ||
| Bread flour | 400 grams | 3½ cups |
| Whole wheat flour* | 50 grams | ½ cup |
| Water, lukewarm | 200 milliliters | Scant cup |
| Egg, large | 1 | 1 |
| Sugar | 40 grams | ¼ cup |
| Salt | 8 grams | 1¼ teaspoons |
| Active dry yeast | 10 grams | 1 Tablespoon |
| Butter, melted | 30 grams | 2 Tablespoons |
| Oil | as needed | as needed |
*Note: optionally omit the whole wheat flour and increase the bread flour accordingly.
Method
Weigh or measure out the flour. Place the water, egg, sugar, salt, and yeast into the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer. Using the paddle beater mix thoroughly. Install the dough hook and add the flour. Knead at the mixer manufacturer’s recommended speed setting until the dough pulls away from the bowl. If it remains stuck to the bowl add more flour a bit at a time until it does. Continue to knead for about 5 minutes.
Fill a large earthenware or glass bowl with hot water to warm it. Empty the water and dry the bowl. Pour a small amount of oil into the bowl. Form the dough into a ball then transfer it to the earthenware bowl and roll around to coat lightly with the oil. Cover the bowl with a towel and set aside to rise until doubled in bulk, about an hour depending on the room temperature.
I like to weigh the dough ball before setting it to rise so that I can accurately divide it later.
Gently deflate the dough and divide it into eight pieces. Shape each piece into a ball then flatten to about 75 cm (3″) across. Place the buns on a lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheet, cover, and let rise for about an hour, until noticeably puffy.
Preheat oven to 190°C (375°F). Bake for about 20 minutes, until golden brown.
I first divided the dough in half then made a loaf with half and four buns with the other half. The loaf takes a bit longer to bake so it is best to bake it to an internal temperature of 95°C (205°F).
Lamb and yogurt are a fine combination so I thought that perhaps combining them in burgers would be an interesting idea. The result was even better than I expected. These easy-to-make burgers incorporate some of the herbal flavors of Greek cuisine but any fresh herbs would do as well. I made two large, dinner-sized patties and served them on hamburger rolls with a bit of mayonnaise. The recipe would be even better made into smaller patties tucked into pita bread with tzatziki. A side of French fries is a nice accompaniment.
1 pound (450 grams) ground lamb
3 cloves garlic
1 sprig mint
1 sprig oregano
1 scallion
1 Tablespoon (15 ml) plain yogurt, preferably Greek
Salt and pepper to taste
Note: I use a food processor for this adding each ingredient in turn.
Mince the garlic. Finely chop the herbs and scallion. Combine with the yogurt. Mix thoroughly into the ground lamb. Form into two or more patties. Season to taste. Grill for about five minutes per side or until done to your liking.
About a quarter of the way down its 444-mile southerly course from Cooperstown to Turkey Point, where it becomes the Chesapeake Bay, the Susquehanna River dips briefly from New York into Pennsylvania to go around Tuscarora Mountain then flows back north and west into Binghamton. Conklin Road, NY Route 7, follows the left bank of the river from the state line into the city before taking a right turn along the Chenango River and heading for Albany and Vermont. Every few years the river floods the homes and businesses that line Route 7, so it takes some moxie to locate here. But the irony is that the owners of Moxie Wood Fire Grill, Mark and Victoria Tedeschi, did not have that in mind when they chose the name a year before the 2006 flood put five feet of water into their restaurant just as they were about to have their grand opening. The Binghamton area is fortunate that they did have that moxie, though, because the region would be poorer without this wonderful place. Located a half dozen miles from downtown Binghamton Moxie is well worth the short drive.
The first thing that strikes you as you walk toward the door to Moxie is the tower of flame across from a couple of chairs to accommodate smokers. A nice touch that perhaps keeps such people from driving a few more miles into Pennsylvania where smoking in restaurants is, sadly, still permitted. Open the door and aroma of wood smoke greets you from the wood-fired grill and pizza oven along the far wall as you walk in. On the left is a cozy bar and lounge; on the right the spacious two-story dining room surrounded by a balcony under which are intimate booths. Over each booth is an unobtrusive sound absorbing panel that makes the sound level just right adding to the overall calm, relaxed ambience.
We were a bit early for our reservations—strongly recommended because the restaurant is often crowded—but the friendly hostess seated us promptly, cheerfully acquiescing to our request for a booth. Our waiter, Chris, was right there to introduce us to the Moxie and to take our drink orders. The menu is extensive with a unifying theme of wood fire cooking. Steaks, of course, are prominent but grilled fish and seafood are also featured. And, since Conklin, New York is well north of the surf-and-turf line (more about that in another post) various combinations are available. Besides having an impressive list of reasonably-priced bottles of wine, including a number from the near-by Finger Lakes, the menu offers an unusually broad selections of wines by the glass. There is also a fine selection of beers and bar drinks.
As is our wont, we started with martinis. Chris did not miss a beat when we ordered classic martinis, not the vodka abominations that pass for such these days. Minutes later he poured them at our table and took our dinner orders. Glenda had the mixed grill of beef tenderloin, diver scallops, and jumbo shrimp; I opted for the New York strip, rare—a personal favorite. Both came with a medley of roasted peppers, zucchini, and carrots. For a side Glenda chose fried polenta and I French fries. I could go into great detail but suffice it to say that everything was near perfection. The polenta was so good that I must try to recreate the recipe. My steak was juicy and bit chewy just as NY strip should be; Glenda raved about her mixed grill. The only minor complaint we had was that the salads arrived before we had finished our martinis. But those salads—mixed greens with croutons, grape tomatoes, and an inexplicable pepperoncini—were topped with outstanding house-made dressing. The roasted-onion dressing I had was especially nice. I should note that while we declined an appetizer the special of the night was grilled pork belly that sounded superb. Perhaps next time we will make a meal from the appetizer menu! The dessert list is short but elegant and well-suited to the rest of the menu. We shared a flour-free chocolate cake that was simply decadent.
I have to rate the dinner we had at Moxie among two or three best I have ever had in Binghamton. The bill for the two of us, including tax and tip but not the dessert that was kindly comped because it was our anniversary, came to about $125, pricy for Binghamton, perhaps, but more than reasonable for the quality of the food and service. If you are celebrating a special occasion, trying to impress out-of-town guest, or just in the mood for an excellent meal, you cannot go wrong at Moxie Wood Fire Grill.
Moxie Wood Fire Grill
998 Conklin Road
Conklin, NY 13748
Reservations: 607-237-0779
This year Cinco de Mayo coincided with Orthodox Easter so it seemed apt to prepare an iconic Greek holiday food in a style reminiscent of Mexico, noting that I make no claims of authenticity on either count. One traditional Mexican preparation of a leg of lamb, or goat, is barbacoa en adobo, literally barbeque in sauce, in which the meat is marinated in a spicy chili paste, placed on a bed of vegetables, wrapped in banana leaves, and slowly roasted for hours. In Greek cuisine a leg of lamb is also marinated but usually in yogurt and lemon but it is grilled or roasted directly over hot coals, often with an aromatic wood added to provide a smoky flavor. In my version, which I admit leans more heavily in the Mexican direction, I use a marinade similar to that used in barbacoa and cook the meat over indirect heat in a charcoal smoker grill with mesquite chips. If you would like to try real barbacoa en adobo I recommend the recipe by Pati Jinich at Pati’s Mexican Table which was also featured in The Washington Post. For guidance on smoking a leg of lamb on a backyard grill I turned to a recipe by the late Papa D. posted at food.com.
In a large, dry, preferably cast iron, skillet over medium heat toast the chilies, being careful not to burn—especially the guajillos which burn easily. Place the chiles into a medium saucepan along with boiling water to just cover them. Simmer for 10 minutes then set aside to cool somewhat. With a pair of tongs, lift each chile from the water, stem end down, remove the stem and seeds, and transfer to a blender. (Note: do not make the mistake I made of thinking that a food processor will work for this otherwise you will have as big a mess as I did.) Strain the cooking liquid into the blender and add rest of the ingredients. Puree until smooth. Wipe out medium saucepan and empty the puree into it. Simmer, uncovered, until it thickens, about 20 to 30 minutes. (Note: traditionally the sauce would be seared in lard or oil before simmering.) Set aside to cool. Trim the leg of lamb of excess fat and, with a sharp knife, remove the membrane (silver skin) being careful not to let the muscles of the leg separate. Place the meat on a large piece of plastic wrap and season the top side with salt and pepper then rub on a generous amount of the marinade. Turn it over and repeat on the other side. Wrap the leg with the plastic using additional large pieces as needed. Put into a suitable pan and refrigerate overnight. Take the lamb out of the refrigerator four or five hours before you plan to serve it. Let it warm up at room temperature for about an hour. Put a quantity of mesquite chips in a bowl of water to soak while you prepare the grill for indirect heat. I put burning charcoal with a few pieces of mesquite on either side of an aluminum drip pan on the fire grate. Place the lamb on the grill and smoke it until it reaches about 150°F (65°C)—from two to four hours depending on how hot your fire is. Ideally you should keep the temperature around 200°F (95°C) but I found that impossible to do on my Weber grill so my lamb was done in about two hours. Let the lamb rest, tented loosely with foil, for a half hour before serving. I served the lamb thinly sliced with warmed tortillas, Mexican rice, beans, and the usual taco accompaniments.
It amazes me that there is a market for boneless ham when there is so much good to be wrested from a ham bone. Making soup, especially bean or pea, is a traditional use for such a bone and one to which I often put it. Lately, however, I have discovered that ham stock offers more flexibility: I can use it as the base for soup or I can put it to a variety of other uses from ham gravy to risotto.
There is no magic to brewing a pot of stock. Brown the bones in oven, or not, put them in stockpot with some mirepoix, a few seasonings, and water. Simmer for a good long time—how long depends on the bones—strain, cool, defat, and freeze in suitable containers. Done!
I recently decided to try making stock in my electric pressure cooker. The results were far better than I expected. The tradeoff is speed and ease for quantity. While I can make five or six quarts at a time in my stockpot, the pressure cooker only yields about three and half. But it is done in under two hours—less if I preheat water while preparing the ingredients. Incidentally, do not take the quantities in this recipe too seriously, they are approximate.
|
Ingredients |
||
|
Ham bone |
1 |
1 |
|
Onion, diced (2 medium) |
8 ounces |
250 grams |
|
Carrot, diced (1 or 2) |
4 ounces |
125 grams |
|
Celery, diced (1 large stalk) |
4 ounces |
125 grams |
|
Garlic, crushed |
2 cloves |
2 cloves |
|
Bay leaves |
3 or 4 |
3 or 4 |
|
Cloves, whole |
4 or 5 |
4 or 5 |
|
Peppercorns, whole |
8 to 10 |
8 to 10 |
|
Water (see method) |
about 4 quarts |
about 4 liters |
Put everything into the pressure cooker. Use just enough water to fill it to the manufacturer’s recommendation. Cook for one hour at high pressure—in my Cuisinart electric that is about 10 psi (69 kPa). Allow the cooker to cool for 10 or 15 minutes then release the pressure per the manufacturer’s instructions. Using tongs, remove the bone then strain the stock into a large bowl or pot. Refrigerate immediately. When cool, skim off the fat. You can discard the fat if you wish but I usually save it to cook with. (Ham fat is particularly good for making bubble and squeak.) Decant the stock into one quart screw top plastic freezer jars.
Sausage and eggs just seem to go together. While in the U.S. we usually associate the two with breakfast in other countries people often eat them for a light dinner. This recipe from Morocco combines eggs with merguez—a lamb sausage popular across North Africa—and a few vegetables to make a tasty supper. If you cannot find merguez, try this dish with another spicy sausage like chorizo or Andouille. You can use any green olives; I used some stuffed with garlic which are particularly tasty. I also used fat-free liquid eggs in place of four of the real ones.
Serves two to four
| Ingredients | ||
| Merguez sausage, halved if large |
240 grams |
8 ounces |
| Onion, finely chopped |
about 100 grams |
1 large |
| Tomato, seeded and chopped |
about 100 grams |
2 medium |
| Green olives, pitted and sliced |
about 100 grams |
10 large |
| Cumin powder |
2 milliliters |
½ teaspoon |
| Sumac powder (optional) |
1 milliliter |
¼ teaspoon |
| Eggs, large |
6 |
6 |
| Salt and pepper |
To taste |
To taste |
Cook the sausage in a large skillet a lid or in the base of a tagine over medium heat until done (70°C or 160°F).
Adjust the fat in the pan to about 30 milliliters (2 Tablespoons) by pouring off excess or adding olive oil. Add the onion, tomatoes, and olives then sprinkle on the spices. Sauté for about 5 minutes or until the onion is softened but not browned.
Beat the eggs lightly to just break the yolks then pour them over the sausage and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover, reduce heat to low, and allow the eggs to poach gently until done, about 20 minutes.
Last night we stopped in to Burger Mondays Bar & Grille on State Street in Binghamton. As is our wont we sat at the bar and ordered the evening’s special, a bison burger. I had mine with seasoned fries while Glenda opted for the house-made sweet potato chips. Here are my impressions:
First off, despite the art on the walls, the ambiance is that of an Irish-themed sports bar. The signs saying that one section was “reserved for Irish police and fireman” may be in jest but they are hardly welcoming. The high ceiling and hard surfaces make the space a bit uninviting and cold, something that was not helped by people holding open the outside door near the bar. Besides painting the sprinkler lines red the current owners have done little to update the interior from its previous incarnations. Still, the bar was friendly enough and felt a lot like a neighborhood guys’ tavern. Drink prices are on par for the area but the bartender was not aware of the $3 well drinks offered at the restaurant’s Facebook page.
Our food arrived promptly—a surprise in a town not known for its quick service. The burgers were cooked as ordered and were very good. My only complaint is that the bacon was rather limp and seemed to have been cooked in a microwave. Glenda really enjoyed her sweet potato chips and the seasoned fries were just to my liking—thin and very crisp. They could, however, have been improved by having the seasoning tossed with them rather than just sprinkled on top. At $15 the burger was a bit pricy, especially for a mid-week special, but I would recommend it.
All in all, Burger Mondays feels like a work in progress. The food we had was good and the service first rate. But the interior needs work.
Literally meaning “yogurt and meat” or “yogurt and goat,” dahi gosht is a rich, creamy North Indian stew. In the United States lamb is more commonly used than goat which is really a shame because the bold flavors tend to overshadow the mild flavor of American lamb. Unless you choose to make it so, this is not a particularly spicy dish so it is great for those who do not care for hot food. Served simply over basmati rice it makes a warming meal.
Serves two to four.
| Ingredients | ||
| Lamb, cubed | 500 grams | 1 pound |
| Yogurt (see note) | 500 grams | 1 pound, about 1½ cups |
| Garlic paste (divided use) | 45 milliliters | 3 Tablespoons |
| Ginger paste (divided use) | 45 milliliters | 3 Tablespoons |
| Turmeric powder | 5 milliliters | 1 teaspoon |
| Green chilies, minced (optional) | To taste | To taste |
| Onion, thinly sliced | 300 grams | 10 ounces, 2 medium |
| Oil | 30 milliliters | 2 Tablespoons |
| Cumin powder | 15 milliliters | 1 Tablespoon |
| Coriander powder | 15 milliliters | 1 Tablespoon |
| Indian chili (mirch) (optional) | To taste | To taste |
| Garam masala | 15 milliliters | 1 Tablespoon |
| Bay leaves, preferably Indian | 4 | 4 |
| Tomatoes, chopped and drained | 250 grams | 8 ounces |
| Lamb or beef stock | 250 milliliters | 1 cup |
| Salt and pepper | To taste | To taste |
| Chopped fresh mint and coriander | For garnish (optional) | For garnish (optional) |
| Julienned fresh ginger | For garnish (optional) | For garnish (optional) |
Note: I use non-fat Greek style yogurt. If you use regular yogurt drain it in cheesecloth before using.
Combine the yogurt, half the garlic paste, half the ginger paste, turmeric powder, and green chilies. Marinate the lamb in this mixture for 30 minutes.
Heat oil in a deep pan and fry the onions with the remaining ginger and garlic pastes the onions are soft but not browned. Add the tomatoes, cumin, coriander, chili powder if using, bay leaves, and garam masala. Continue to fry, stirring often, until the oil separates from the mixture.
Add the lamb and yogurt marinade to the pot. Cook, stirring often, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Stir in the lamb stock and continue cooking until the meat is tender and the sauce thickened. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
Serve hot.
There are versions of potatoes and cabbage or kale throughout Northern Europe. In the British Isles one finds the onomatopoeic Bubble and Squeak in England, Cawl Cennin a Thatws in Wales, Rumpledethumps in Scotland, and Colcannon in Ireland. Like most traditional dishes from the “Old Sod,” the versions of colcannon found in the United States reflect nostalgia for a largely mythical past combined with the tastes and plenty—not to say gluttony—of the New World. It is unlikely, for example, that a 19th Century Irish peasant would have had the half pound of butter many recipes call for. My version is unapologetically American although I have tempered the excess a bit. I have used cabbage instead of the more traditional kale. I would happily use the latter, it being more flavorful, but what is available at this time of year is of dubious quality. The bacon I use is American-style or what our cousins across the Atlantic call streaky bacon. Irish bacon would be even better, just add a bit of oil or butter to make up for the lower fat content. Finally, in place of the mealy russet potatoes most recipes specify I have used small, firm boiling potatoes. I just like them better. And I left them unpeeled. Use whatever potato you prefer and peel them or not as you see fit.
Serves two as a meal.
Ingredients |
|
|
|
Potatoes, whole or large cubes |
600 grams |
1⅓ pounds |
|
Bacon, coarsely chopped |
100 grams |
2 thick slices |
|
Cabbage, coarsely shredded |
450 grams |
1 pound (½ medium head) |
|
Onion, sliced |
60 grams |
2 ounces (1 medium) |
|
Heavy cream (36%) |
60 milliliters |
¼ cup |
|
Butter |
30 grams |
2 Tablespoons |
|
Salt and pepper |
to taste |
to taste |
Boil or steam the potatoes until soft, about 12 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool a bit.
In a large skillet over medium heat, render the bacon until nearly crispy. (If using Irish bacon put in enough butter to allow it to fry nicely, perhaps 15 milliliters (1 Tablespoon)). Add the onion and sauté until softened but not browned. Add the cabbage and toss to coat with the bacon fat or butter. Cover, turn the heat to low, and cook gently for 10 to 15 minutes or until the cabbage is soft.
When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, cut them into small cubes and place into a large bowl. Mash along with the cream and butter until smooth but still a bit lumpy. Fold in the cabbage, bacon, and onion. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
