This recipe is an elaboration on Eggplant and Shrimp Bake from Emeril Lagasse’s Louisiana Real & Rustic (New York: William Morrow and Company, Inc., 1996) 90. While the original is a side dish my version is a meal in itself. It is intentionally lacking in starch so as to be low in carbohydrates. If you wish you could add rice and more stock but then you would have something more like jambalaya.
Serves 2 generously
Preheat oven to 375° (350° for convection).
Pour ⅛ inch of oil into a 12-inch frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the sausage and brown well. Remove to a bowl leaving as much oil behind as possible. Put the shrimp into the pan and cook quickly until pink. Remove and set aside.
If needed, add a bit of oil to the pan then sauté the eggplant for about 3 minutes or until just beginning to soften. Season with a good grind of black pepper then add the onions, celery, bell pepper, and chili. Cook, stirring often, for another 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, garlic, and dried herbs to the pan. Toss to combine and sauté until the tomatoes are just soft, about 2 minutes. Pour over the stock and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and stir in the bread crumbs and parmesan. Turn into a suitable casserole dish and bake for 30 to 45 minutes or until bubbly and golden brown.
The secret to great eggplant parmesan is a great tomato sauce. And a great tomato sauce starts with a great trito, the Italian version of the French mire poix or the Spanish soffritto. Because I was making a meatless sauce I elaborated the trito somewhat to intensify the flavors—and to use up some odds and ends. This recipe calls for canned tomatoes because fresh local Romas are not yet available but if you can get fresh by all means use them. There will be lots of extra sauce for other Italian dished. Freeze whatever you will not use within a couple of days.
Trim the ends off of the eggplant and square two opposite sides. Cut into slices about ⅜ to ½ inch thick. Wrap and set it aside.
Coarsely chop the side pieces you cut from the eggplant, onions, carrot, celery, garlic, and pepper. Put into a food processor, in batches if need be, and reduce to a mince.
Heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-low heat then add the minced vegetables. Stir in ½ teaspoon of salt. Cover and sweat gently for 10 minutes or until soft but not colored. Add the herbs, recover, and cook for another 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, wine, water, and bay leaf, bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for an hour.
Fish out the bay leaf and discard. Using a stick blender puree the sauce thoroughly. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. If you do not have a stick blender, let the sauce cool a bit, then puree in batches in the food processor.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Brush the eggplant slices lightly with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. (Be sparing with the oil because eggplant is a like a sponge and can easily become greasy.) Heat a grill pan or skillet over medium high heat and, working in batches, brown the eggplant nicely on each side adding a bit of olive oil to the pan as needed. Set aside.
Cover the bottom of an 8” x 10” x 2” metal or ceramic baking dish with a thin layer of the sauce and sprinkle with a bit of parmesan cheese. Layer the eggplant overlapping the slices. Cover with more sauce, parmesan cheese, and the shredded. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 20 minutes or until just bubbling. Turn on the broiler and finish until nicely browned. Allow to set for at least five minutes before serving.
Making Italian American classics like lasagna gluten free is a challenge. One can use gluten-free noodles—in my opinion generally inedible—or you can just eliminate the noodles entirely and use slices of eggplant in their place. The result is a bit like eggplant parmesan but with layers of oozy ricotta filling. Because I am a fan of one dish meals with balanced nutrition I add some spinach to the cheese. The Italian sausage is optional but I like the spiciness it adds to the dish. If you leave it out consider adding a bit of crushed red pepper to the sauce. I use low-fat rather than non-fat ricotta and mozzarella because I think they have a better texture. Full-fat or non-fat would work equally well if you prefer. Buon appetitto!
A note on cutting the eggplant: I did it by hand and got 6 large center slices; next time I’ll use a mandolin and go for eight.
Preheat the broiler and, if you have one, a searing grid. Cut the top off the eggplant and peel it if you wish (I don’t). Cut into thin slices reserving the small side pieces for another use. Drizzle with olive oil on both sides being careful not to use too much—eggplant is like a sponge for oil. Working in batches if need be, grill for 3 to 5 minutes on a side. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350°.
If using link sausage remove the casing. Film a pan with olive oil, set over medium heat, and crumble the sausage into it. Brown, stirring often, for about 3 minutes then add the mushrooms, sprinkle with ½ tsp. of salt, and continue to sauté until done, about another 3 to 5 minutes. Season with a generous grind of black pepper. Off heat, stir in the marinara sauce and set aside.
Combine the ricotta cheese, egg, spinach, and nutmeg in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper.
Lightly oil a suitably sized baking dish and cover the bottom with a thin coating of tomato sauce. Place two slices of eggplant over it with the tops at opposite ends. Spread with half the ricotta cheese mixture. Add two more slices of eggplant and cover with half the remaining tomato sauce. Continue with the rest of the ingredients. Cover the top with the mozzarella and sprinkle on the parmesan. Bake in the bottom of the hot oven for about 30 minutes or until the top is melted and lightly browned.
This Italian treat whose name translates as “stocking” is often thought of, mistakenly it turns out, as an inside-out pizza. (That would be a Stromboli that has the tomato sauce on the inside while a calzone is served with sauce on top.) The filling can be just about anything that will fit but cheese is usually considered essential. I make mine with whatever odds and ends are in the refrigerator and freezer that can pass as even vaguely Italian. You can bake the calzone on a pizza stone, if you have one, or on an oiled sheet pan.
8 ounces pizza dough, homemade or store bought
4 ounces hot Italian sausage
Olive oil
2 or 3 radicchio leaves
½ cup diced eggplant
½ onion, halved through the root and thinly sliced
½ bell pepper, cut into thin strips
Salt and pepper to taste
4 thin slices mozzarella
Marinara sauce and grated parmesan to serve
Preheat oven to 400°.
If the sausage is in links remove the casing and break up. Fry in a skillet until done. Set aside.
Wipe out the skillet and add a bit of olive oil. Fry the radicchio leaves for a minute or two until wilted. Set aside on paper towels. In the same skillet sauté the eggplant until soft seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside. Add a little more oil to the pan and sauté the onion and pepper again seasoning to taste.
Stretch or roll the dough into an 8 to 10 inch circle. Lay the radicchio leaves on half the dough circle. Spoon on the eggplant then the onions and pepper. Top with the mozzarella. Fold the dough in half enclosing the fillings. Seal the edges by rolling the dough over itself and pinching it.
Bake in the hot oven for 20 to 30 minutes, rotating half way through to make sure it cooks evenly. Let rest about 10 minutes before serving topped with marinara sauce and parmesan.
Ok, I confess that I served this with grilled Italian sausage but this eggplant parmesan is completely vegetarian and would be great served with pasta and a salad. Incidentally, salting the eggplant is not mandatory but it does reduce the likelihood of its being bitter and, in my opinion, concentrates its flavor.
1 large eggplant
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion
1 bell pepper
4 to 6 mushrooms
2 Tbsp. dry vermouth
2 cups tomato sauce, homemade or from a jar
½ pound mozzarella, sliced
Grated parmesan
Chopped Italian parsley leaves
Trim the eggplant and cut ¼-inch thick slices from the center reserving the short slices from the sides for another use. Lay the slices on a rack over a sheet pan and sprinkle generously on both sides with kosher salt. Set aside for about 30 minutes.
Peel the onion, halve through the root, and slice into thin semicircle. Cut the top and bottom off the pepper, remove seeds and ribs, then slice into thin strips. Clean and slice the mushrooms. Warm the tomato sauce.
Place a rack 4 inches below the broiler and preheat. Rinse the eggplant slices well to remove the salt then dry on a kitchen towel. Clean and dry the sheet pan and lay the eggplant slices in a single layer. Brush lightly on each side with olive oil and put under the broiler for 4 or 5 minutes on each side or until just starting to color. Remove and set aside to cool.
While the eggplant is roasting add olive oil to a fry pan and sauté the onions and peppers until soft. Season with salt and pepper to taste and set aside. Add a bit more oil and perhaps a bit of butter to the pan and add the mushrooms. Sprinkle with a bit of salt to help draw out their moisture and sauté until nicely browned. Stir in the vermouth and let boil down. Set aside.
Turn oven on to 325° (300° for convection). Choose a shallow, oven-proof pan wide enough to accommodate the eggplant slices crosswise. Spread a bit of tomato sauce thinly in the pan and layout the eggplant slices. Cover with a bit more tomato sauce. Spread on the onions and pepper, then the mushrooms, and a more tomato sauce. Arrange the mozzarella slices to cover the dish and top with the remaining tomato sauce. Sprinkle on the parmesan and the parsley leaves. Bake until browned and bubbly, about 20 minutes.
A couple of times a week I like to prepare a vegetarian meal. The inspiration for tonight’s entrée came from some eggplant I bought at the farmers’ market on Friday that were getting a bit soft. This recipe, very loosely based on one in Madhur Jaffrey’s World Vegetarian (Clarkson Potter/Publishers, New York 1999), is quite mild and goes perfectly with steamed white rice.
1 pound eggplant
1 small onion
1 medium bell pepper
1 Tbsp. chopped garlic
1 Tbsp. ginger paste or grated ginger
1 Tbsp. Sichuan hot chili sauce or to taste
1 Tbsp. Chinese black beans
2 Tbsp. soy sauce
Oil
Roll cut the eggplant or simply cut into 1-inch chunks. (I will not attempt to explain roll cutting. You can find videos on line.) Steam for about 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.
Cut the onion in half through the root then slice into thin half circles. Seed and rib the pepper then cut into 1-inch square. Measure out the remaining ingredients.
Heat a wok over high heat. Film with oil and add the garlic and ginger. Stir fry for a minute or so then add the hot chili sauce and black beans. Cook for another minute then put the onions and pepper into the wok. Stir fry for 2 or 3 minutes until the peppers are softened but still crisp. Add the eggplant and soy sauce, stirring until warmed through. Serve over steamed white rice.
Glenda is at an antiques show with a friend so I get to indulge in gluten…
When I lived in Maryland I loved eating at Three Brothers Pizza in Greenbelt. Today Three Brothers has expanded all over the Maryland suburbs of Washington especially east of the city. But my favorite from ten years ago, the Vegetarian Boat™, is still on their menu. As good as it is though; it is difficult to justify a five-hour drive for it. So, here is my attempt to replicate it using fresh veggies from the Binghamton farmers’ market.
Note: Three Brothers’ version has mozzarella in it. This recipe does not, mostly because I did not feel like a trip to the supermarket. Add a slice or two if you like, or leave it out for a lower calorie meal.
1 ripe tomato, halved through the stem then cut into strips
1 onion, cut in half through the root and thinly sliced
1 bell pepper cut in half, seeded, then sliced into strips
Extra virgin olive oil
2 length slices eggplant about ¼-inch thick
Dough for a small pizza
Tomato sauce (I promise I will post a recipe soon)
Grated parmesan to serve
Place a pizza stone on the bottom rack of the oven. Preheat to 375° (350° for convection). Put the tomato, onion, and pepper on a sheet pan. Sprinkle with a bit of olive oil and roast on a rack in the center of the oven for about 20 minutes, turning occasionally, until done. Remove pan from the oven and set a side to cool a bit. Remove center rack and raise oven temperature to 400°.
Heat a little olive oil in a non-stick skillet. When quite hot, add the eggplant and cook for about 3 or 4 minutes on a side until softened. Remove to paper towels to absorb any excess oil.
On a peel dusted with corn meal, stretch or roll the pizza dough into an oval about 6 inches by 10 inches. Put the eggplant slices on the center of the dough. Spread the now-mushy tomato over it, adding a pinch of salt. Cover with the onion and the pepper. Add a bit more salt. Fold the sides of the dough over and pinch in the middle. Fold over the ends and pinch to form a boat. Slide onto the hot pizza stone and cook for about 15 minutes or until the bread is nicely browned. (You could also put the boat on a pizza pan to cook.)
Serve with tomato sauce and parmesan.
Originally from Provence in the south of France, ratatouille is the essence of the summer vegetable garden at its best. There are many ways to make ratatouille from simply diced vegetables cooked in a saucepan to a fancy layered casserole. And the choice of vegetables is up to you as long as you include onion, garlic, squash and/or eggplant, and tomatoes. In this recipe, very loosely based on the one in Julia Child’s classic Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Alfred A. Knopf, Inc., New York 1961), I try to strike a happy middle ground.
1 eggplant, about 12 ounces
1 zucchini or summer squash, 12 ounces to 1 pound
1 pound tomatoes, I use a mixture of red and yellow
1 onion, red onion is particularly pretty
4 cloves garlic
¼ cup coarsely chopped fresh basil
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh thyme or 1 tsp. dried
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh oregano or 1 tsp. dried
2 bay leaves
Fruity extra virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
Peel the eggplant, slice lengthwise into ⅜-inch slices and cut those slices into 1-inch by 3-inch pieces. Scrub the squash and cut like the eggplant. Put both into a large bowl and sprinkle generously with kosher salt. Set aside for at least 30 minutes. Drain the accumulated liquid and rinse thoroughly to remove the salt. Set aside. (You could skip this step but not only does it remove any bitterness in the eggplant, it concentrates the flavor of the vegetables.)
Place the tomatoes in a pot of boiling water for about 30 seconds. Let cool for a couple of minutes then cut out the stem and peel. Cut into slices ¼ -inch thick then cut those slices into ¼-inch strips. Set aside.
Cut the onion in half through the root, peel, and slice thinly. Peel the garlic and crush by putting your kitchen knife flat on top of it and smacking it with your fist. Chop coarsely.
Lay the eggplant in one layer on half of a kitchen towel, fold over, and press to dry. Heat about 1 Tbsp. of the oil in an enameled cast iron Dutch over or other suitable vessel. When just about to smoke put the eggplant in the pan in one layer. Fry for about 1 minute on each side. Remove and set aside. Repeat with the rest of the eggplant adding a bit of oil after each batch as needed. Do the same with the squash.
If needed add a bit more oil to the pan and cook the onions over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes or until softened but not browned. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two. Spread the tomatoes over the onions, sprinkle with a large pinch of kosher salt, and add the herbs and a generous grind of black pepper. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 10 minutes. Layer the squash on top of the tomatoes, grind on a bit of pepper, cover, and continue to simmer for another 10 minutes. Uncover; turn the heat up a bit, and cook, stirring so that it doesn’t stick, for another 15 minutes or so.
Ratatouille is very good served right away and even better if allowed to cool and reheated.
Today the Binghamton farmers’ market was teeming with sweet corn, peppers of all sizes and colors, and several varieties of eggplant. I picked up a beautiful round heirloom variety with a white skin and purple striping. Along with a basket of just-picked tomatoes it was just the thing for eggplant parmesan.
½ pound hot or mild Italian sausage, either pork or poultry (ok, hot pork is the way to go)
1 medium eggplant, about 1 pound
4 medium tomatoes, about 1¾ pound, or 28 ounces of canned tomatoes, preferably no salt added
1 medium onion, chopped
1 small bell pepper, seeded and chopped
4 or 5 cloves garlic, minced
3 or 4 fresh oregano leaves
4 or 5 fresh basil leaves
1 small sprig flat leaf parsley
1 tsp. crushed dry red pepper, or to taste (optional)
½ tsp. sugar (optional but recommended with canned tomatoes to bring out their flavor)
¼ dry red wine
Generous grind black pepper
½ pound shredded part-skim mozzarella
¼ cup grated parmesan
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Trim the ends off the eggplant and slice into ¼-inch thick rounds. Layer the slices into a large bowl, sprinkling each layer with kosher salt. Set aside for about 30 minutes. Drain, rinse well in fresh water, and lay out on a kitchen towel covering with a second towel. Let dry for a few minutes. (If you are sure the eggplants are not a variety prone to bitterness you can skip the salting step.) Heat a small amount of olive oil in a non-stick skillet over medium high heat and, working in batches, brown the eggplant nicely on each side replenishing the olive oil as needed. Be sparing, though, because eggplant is a like an oil sponge and can easily become too oily. Set aside.
If the sausage is in links, remove the casing and chop. If using bulk sausage simply break up. Put the sausage in a frying pan and cook over medium heat until well brown and the fat has rendered out. Place in a strainer set in a bowl to drain.
Dip the tomatoes in boiling water for a few seconds. Let them cool for a minute or two then peel. Cut out the stems and halve equatorially. Squeeze out the seeds and set aside.
Coarsely chop the onion and bell pepper. Finely chop them in a food processor. Heat a bit of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan with a lid and sweat the onions and peppers until soft, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for a couple more minutes until fragrant.
Puree the tomatoes in the food processor and add to the onions and peppers. Tear the herb leaves into the pot. Add the crushed red pepper, sugar, red wine, and black pepper. Cover partially and simmer gently for a half hour or longer.
Puree the sauce with a stick blender or, very carefully, in a food processor. Add the sausage and return to a very low simmer until warm through.
Heat the oven to 350° (325° for convection). Cover the bottom of an 8” x 10” x 2”metal or glass baking dish with a thin layer of the sauce. Layer the eggplant overlapping the slices. Cover with the rest of the sauce. Spread the shredded mozzarella over the top and sprinkle with the parmesan. Bake in the middle of the oven for about 20 to 30 minutes. Turn on the broiler and finish until nicely browned. Allow to set for at least five minutes before serving.
Serves 4 to 6 depending on accompaniments.
