Sausage and eggs just seem to go together. While in the U.S. we usually associate the two with breakfast in other countries people often eat them for a light dinner. This recipe from Morocco combines eggs with merguez—a lamb sausage popular across North Africa—and a few vegetables to make a tasty supper. If you cannot find merguez, try this dish with another spicy sausage like chorizo or Andouille. You can use any green olives; I used some stuffed with garlic which are particularly tasty. I also used fat-free liquid eggs in place of four of the real ones.
Serves two to four
| Ingredients | ||
| Merguez sausage, halved if large |
240 grams |
8 ounces |
| Onion, finely chopped |
about 100 grams |
1 large |
| Tomato, seeded and chopped |
about 100 grams |
2 medium |
| Green olives, pitted and sliced |
about 100 grams |
10 large |
| Cumin powder |
2 milliliters |
½ teaspoon |
| Sumac powder (optional) |
1 milliliter |
¼ teaspoon |
| Eggs, large |
6 |
6 |
| Salt and pepper |
To taste |
To taste |
Cook the sausage in a large skillet a lid or in the base of a tagine over medium heat until done (70°C or 160°F).
Adjust the fat in the pan to about 30 milliliters (2 Tablespoons) by pouring off excess or adding olive oil. Add the onion, tomatoes, and olives then sprinkle on the spices. Sauté for about 5 minutes or until the onion is softened but not browned.
Beat the eggs lightly to just break the yolks then pour them over the sausage and vegetables. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Cover, reduce heat to low, and allow the eggs to poach gently until done, about 20 minutes.
Toward the end of last week there was a flurry of emails among my wife and her siblings about how to honor my mother-in-law on Mothers’ Day. (This is not a family famous for planning ahead!) The opening bid was dinner at a mediocre Greek diner (isn’t that redundant?). Aside from the dubious meal prospects that raised the question of availability. The Binghamton area has a very high mother-to-restaurant ratio so the most popular Mothers’ Day brunch and dinner venues are pretty much booked up by Easter. I countered with the offer of brunch at noon. Too early they said, how about dinner at two? I replied at our house Sunday dinner is at four. We agreed on brunch at two and I set about planning a menu for eight people. After a couple revisions to accommodate individual tastes and dietary restrictions, this is what I came up with:
In practice, the galettes morphed into hash browns, the garlic bread became plain Italian bread, and the avocados turned out to be a bit too old to use. One brother-in-law “volunteered” to bring the salad, the other (of those attending) provided the champagne for the mimosas, and I set about preparing the rest of the meal.
The first thing I did was to cut up and blanch the broccoli and asparagus. I figured that since broccoli has a milder flavor than asparagus I could do them in that order in the same pot of boiling water. While the water was coming to a boil I made a dozen 2-ounce patties from two pounds of sausage saving the last half pound for the frittata. Sensing my growing anxiety my wife peeled and grated a couple pounds of baking potatoes and set them aside in a bowl of cold water to keep them from discoloring.
My range has a griddle so I heated it and preheated the oven to 200°F. First I cooked the sausage patties and put them on a half-sheet pan lined with paper towels in the warm oven. Next I cooked a dozen rashers of thick-cut bacon plus three for the frittata and similarly stowed them in the oven. Then I drained the potatoes, rolled them in a kitchen towel squeezing out as much water as possible, and spread them onto the bacon grease left on the griddle. When the potatoes were done I put them onto another sheet pan, covered them with a towel, and popped them into the oven with the rest of accompaniments.
Now at this point I should have swapped out the griddle on my range for the two equal sized burners so that I could have made both frittatas at the same time. But I didn’t, thinking that I could get them each partially done in turn then finish them together under the broiler. Did I mention that I had not yet made frittatas on my new range? I didn’t know that the broiler was very hot and that two 10-inch skillets do not fit comfortably under said broiler. And I realized too late that I should have cooked the sausage for the frittata ahead of time as I had done the bacon. Still, despite a few moments of mild panic everything worked out.
For each frittata I frothed with a hand blender four whole eggs with a half cup of liquid eggs and a quarter cup of heavy cream seasoned with a bit of salt. I poured the egg mixture over the meat and vegetables in a non-stick skillet and topped with about a half cup of cheese. When the eggs had set around the edges I put both frittatas under the broiler and turned it to high. In hindsight I should have cooked them a bit longer on the top of the stove and set them farther from broiler because they became a bit too brown before being done through. Finally I pulled the sausage, bacon, and potatoes from the oven and turned the heat up to 350°F to finish the frittatas. By the time everyone had been herded to the table they were ready to eat.
I admit that the gluten-free buckwheat clafoutis was an experiment. (Doesn’t everyone experiment on family?) A clafoutis, for those who are not familiar with it, is sort of a French upside-down cake. Traditionally it is made with cherries and a flour batter. I used frozen blueberries and frozen peach slices that I set out to thaw then spread on the bottom of a deep pie plate. For the batter I mixed together three-quarters of a cup of white buckwheat flour, one quarter cup of sugar, a scant tablespoon of xanthan gum, and a teaspoon of baking powder. I then separated three eggs combining the yolks with a bit of cream, a dash of vanilla, and about a half cup of water and beating the whites stiffly. I stirred the liquid into the dry ingredients adding more water a little at a time until I had a medium batter. Into that I stirred half of the egg whites then folded in the rest. I poured the batter over the fruit and pressed it down a bit into them. It took about 45 minutes to bake in the 350°F oven (test with a toothpick rather than rely on time). I served it with a dollop of sweetened whipped cream accompanied by a orange slices and coffee.
My inspiration for this dish was an online post of a recipe for baked eggs with tomatoes. But since it was a hot day I decided to poach the eggs in the sauce rather than heat up the kitchen by using the oven. The result was delicious, resembling, I learned later, a version of huevos rancheros popular in Texas in the 1950s. I used scallions that are growing in profusion in my garden just now but onions would work as well. And you might top the eggs with a bit of cheese. I served them plain but you could as well put them over tortillas or slices of toast.
Serves two
Trim the scallions then separate the white and green parts. Chop the white and slice the green thinly crosswise.
Heat a bit of oil or bacon fat in a small (8-inch) non-stick frying with a lid over medium heat. Sauté the white parts of the scallions until soft but not browned. Pour in the tomato sauce and warm through. Season with hot sauce to taste. Spread ¾ of the scallion greens over the sauce.
Carefully break the eggs over the sauce so that it is covered. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and poach gently until the whites are just set, about 4 minutes. Garnish with the remaining scallion greens and serve hot.
Also known as tortilla española or tortilla de patatas, this classic Spanish dish it is eaten at any time of day, not just for breakfast, and is often served at room temperature. It makes a wonderful meatless dinner.
Note: The Spanish use a special lid to turn the tortilla. You can do the same by inverting a plate over the skillet, turning the tortilla onto it, then sliding it back into the pan. Or, you can simply pop the whole thing about 4 inches below a pre-heated broiler. The turning makes for a nicer presentation but it is fraught with potential for disaster.
Serves 2 as an entree
Scrub or peel the potatoes and slice ⅛-inch thick. Halve the onions lengthwise and slice crosswise the same thickness as the potatoes. Heat the oil in a large (12”) non-stick skillet. When hot, add the potatoes and onions. Stir gently to coat with oil. Cover and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring a few times.
Beat the eggs in a large bowl (I use a stick blender to get them nice and frothy). Season with salt and pepper. Using a slotted spoon, remove the onions and potatoes from the oil and fold into the eggs.
Pour about 2 Tbsp. of the oil into a 10” non-stick skillet and put over medium-high heat. When the oil is very hot add the egg, onion, and potato mixture. Shake gently to distribute evenly. Reduce the heat a bit and cook until the edges are set, about 2 or 3 minutes.
Turn the tortilla as described in the note above and return to medium heat for about 5 minutes. Test with a small knife or toothpick to make sure it is cooked through. Slide out onto a serving plate, garnish, and serve.
Say tortilla to a North American and they will instantly think of a thin flat bread of corn or sometimes wheat. But say it to a Spaniard and they will envision something completely different: a thick cake of eggs and potatoes often flavored with a bit of meat or sausage. In Spain these are eaten warm or at room temperature for any meal of the day. I like to make one for dinner that is large enough that there will be leftovers for breakfast. One trick to making a successful tortilla: cook the chorizo, onion, and potato in a 12” skillet but make the finished tortilla in a 10” one so that it is nice and thick. And do not skimp on the olive oil or you will have undercooked potatoes. To keep the amount of fat under control I mix non-fat liquid eggs with whole eggs. You could all of one or the other if you prefer. If I have milk or cream on hand I add a bit but it is not essential.
Preheat oven to 350° and set a rack about 4 inches below broiler (for an electric oven). Put the olive oil into a 12” non-stick frying pan over medium heat and cook the chorizo for about 2 minutes. Add the onion and cook until soft but not colored, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, season with salt and a good grind of black pepper, and toss or stir to combine. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Set aside to cool a bit.
Combine the eggs, liquid eggs, and cream in a large bowl. Beat to a froth—I use a stick blender—then fold in the potato mixture. Film a 10”-inch oven proof, non-stick skillet with olive oil and turn the potato/egg mixture into it. Cook over medium-high heat for a few minutes until the edges begin to set. Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Switch the oven to broil and continue cooking for another 10 minutes or until the top is nicely browned. Let sit for a few minutes before sliding onto a large plate to serve.
Have some of last night’s salmon pie left over? Have it for breakfast in a fritatta. Break the leftover pie into an oven-proof non-stick skillet and warm for a few minutes. Pour 4 to 6 well-beaten eggs over the pie. Cook on the stovetop for about 3 or 4 minutes until the edges set then put under the broiler until browned and cooked through, about 5 minutes.
Also known as tortilla española, this classic Spanish dish is a type of omelet resembling a quiche but without a crust. And like a quiche it is eaten at any time of day, not just for breakfast. Traditionally the potatoes are cooked slowly in abundant olive oil—almost poached. I reduce the oil considerably. Also, in Spain the tortilla is cooked entirely on the stove top being turned using a special lid. I finish it under the broiler. Finally, I use a combination of whole eggs and non-fat liquid eggs. You could use all of either one. Unless you have an ungracious guest from Andalusia no one is likely to object.
Serves 2 to 4
Scrub or peel the potatoes and slice ⅛-inch thick. Halve the onions lengthwise and slice thinly crosswise. Over medium heat the oil in an oven-proof non-stick skillet. When hot, add the potatoes and onions. Stir gently to coat with oil. Cover and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring a few times.
Beat the eggs in a large bowl (I use a stick blender to get them nice and frothy). Season with salt and pepper. Fold the onions and potatoes into the eggs.
Preheat the broiler. Reheat the skillet over medium-high heat. If needed add a bit of olive oil. Pour in the egg mixture and shake gently to smooth out. Cook for about 4 minutes or until the edges of the tortilla have set. Place 4 inches below the broiler element for about 5 minutes. Test with a small knife or toothpick to make sure it is cooked through.
Sunday dinner this week was a rerun, pork back ribs, so I am posting the recipe from brunch instead.
A frittata makes a great Sunday brunch. The fillings can be just about anything you want—an ex-brother-in-law was fond of using left-over Chinese take out in his. This one is similar to a quiche Lorraine but without the crust. I used Stilton on top for a novel twist but you might prefer a more traditional cheese like gruyere or cheddar. Sometimes I replace some or all of the whole eggs with a non-fat product like Egg Beaters.
2 slices bacon, chopped
1 medium onion, chopped
4 ounces mushrooms, sliced, halved first if large
4 or more large eggs
Stilton or other cheese to top
Place the bacon in a broiler-proof, preferably non-stick, skillet and cook for a couple minutes until there is some fat in the pan. Add the onions and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and continue cooking, tossing or stirring regularly, until the bacon is crispy and the mushrooms have given up their liquid.
Set a rack 4 inches below the broiler and preheat on high. Beat the eggs well—a stick blender does a splendid job—and pour over the filling. Sprinkle the cheese over the eggs. Cook for 3 or 4 minutes or until the egg begins to pull away from the sides of the pan. Finish under the broiler for 8 to 10 minutes or until the top is nicely browned. Test for doneness with a toothpick. If still a bit runny, put the skillet on a lower rack of the oven for a couple of minutes with the broiler off to finish cooking through.
