Literally meaning “yogurt and meat” or “yogurt and goat,” dahi gosht is a rich, creamy North Indian stew. In the United States lamb is more commonly used than goat which is really a shame because the bold flavors tend to overshadow the mild flavor of American lamb. Unless you choose to make it so, this is not a particularly spicy dish so it is great for those who do not care for hot food. Served simply over basmati rice it makes a warming meal.
Serves two to four.
| Ingredients | ||
| Lamb, cubed | 500 grams | 1 pound |
| Yogurt (see note) | 500 grams | 1 pound, about 1½ cups |
| Garlic paste (divided use) | 45 milliliters | 3 Tablespoons |
| Ginger paste (divided use) | 45 milliliters | 3 Tablespoons |
| Turmeric powder | 5 milliliters | 1 teaspoon |
| Green chilies, minced (optional) | To taste | To taste |
| Onion, thinly sliced | 300 grams | 10 ounces, 2 medium |
| Oil | 30 milliliters | 2 Tablespoons |
| Cumin powder | 15 milliliters | 1 Tablespoon |
| Coriander powder | 15 milliliters | 1 Tablespoon |
| Indian chili (mirch) (optional) | To taste | To taste |
| Garam masala | 15 milliliters | 1 Tablespoon |
| Bay leaves, preferably Indian | 4 | 4 |
| Tomatoes, chopped and drained | 250 grams | 8 ounces |
| Lamb or beef stock | 250 milliliters | 1 cup |
| Salt and pepper | To taste | To taste |
| Chopped fresh mint and coriander | For garnish (optional) | For garnish (optional) |
| Julienned fresh ginger | For garnish (optional) | For garnish (optional) |
Note: I use non-fat Greek style yogurt. If you use regular yogurt drain it in cheesecloth before using.
Combine the yogurt, half the garlic paste, half the ginger paste, turmeric powder, and green chilies. Marinate the lamb in this mixture for 30 minutes.
Heat oil in a deep pan and fry the onions with the remaining ginger and garlic pastes the onions are soft but not browned. Add the tomatoes, cumin, coriander, chili powder if using, bay leaves, and garam masala. Continue to fry, stirring often, until the oil separates from the mixture.
Add the lamb and yogurt marinade to the pot. Cook, stirring often, until most of the liquid has evaporated. Stir in the lamb stock and continue cooking until the meat is tender and the sauce thickened. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper as needed.
Serve hot.
Recently I learned that some in the West believe fish and yogurt to be a poisonous combination. Fortunately no one informed the people of Bengal, who proudly call themselves Bongs, otherwise we would not have this lovely dish, known in the local language as Doi Maach. In India or Bangladesh it is often made with rohu, a variety of carp common in the Ganges delta. Not having any rohu I used haddock but any firm, non-oily, white fish would do. Serve it hot with plain basmati or other long grain white rice.
I adapted this recipe from one published at about.com.
|
Ingredients |
|
|
|
1 pound |
500 grams |
|
|
Onion (1 medium) |
3 ounces |
85 grams |
|
Plain Greek yogurt |
1 cup |
250 grams |
|
Ginger paste |
1 tablespoon |
15 milliliters |
|
Garlic paste |
1 tablespoon |
15 milliliters |
|
Turmeric powder |
½ teaspoon |
2½ milliliters |
|
Indian chili powder (mirch) or cayenne |
½ teaspoon |
2½ milliliters |
|
Corn starch (see note) |
1 teaspoon |
5 milliliters |
|
Mustard oil (preferred) or substitute |
2 tablespoons |
30 milliliters |
|
Whole cloves |
3 |
3 |
|
Whole black peppercorns |
5 |
5 |
|
Whole green cardamoms |
2 |
2 |
|
Cinnamon stick |
1-inch piece |
25 mm piece |
|
Bay leaf, preferably Indian |
1 medium |
1 medium |
|
Onion, finely chopped |
4 ounces |
120 grams |
|
Salt |
to taste |
to taste |
Cut the fish into 1-inch (25 mm) cubes. Puree the onion to a paste in a food processor or blender. Combine the yogurt, onion paste, ginger paste, garlic paste, turmeric, chili powder, and corn starch. (Note: the corn starch will help non-fat or low-fat yogurt from separating.) Add the fish to the mixture and mix in gently. Marinate in the refrigerator for an hour or two.
Place a skillet large enough to hold the fish and marinade over medium heat. When hot add the oil then the whole spices, i.e. cloves, peppercorns, cardamom, cinnamon, and bay leaf. Fry until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the chopped onion and sauté until starting to color, about 5 minutes.
Remove the skillet from the heat and allow to cool for a minute or two. Turn in the fish and marinade, folding gently to combine with the spices and onion. Return to low heat and simmer until the fish is done and the marinade has turned golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Season to taste with salt.
For me, nothing is better with Indian food that a cold Indian lager. Unfortunately Indian beers can be difficult to find in the US. My local Wegman’s had nary a one. I was about to give up when it occurred to me that Jamaica has a large Indian population. Sure enough, Jamaican Red Stripe lager, which is easy to find, was perfect with the Indian dinner I made. Try it.
Greens are a popular dish in many, if not most, cultures. In the Indian and Pakistani Punjab they are called saag and usually are made with mustard greens, sarson, or spinach, palak, and often include potatoes, saag aloo, or yoghurt cheese, saag paneer. In the Punjab, Saag is usually eaten with bread such as na’an or a Pakistani corn bread called makki ki roti however in other part of India and in the West it is often served as a side dish. For the uninitiated American, palak saag will probably be more familiar but do try sarson saag. Its slightly bitter taste, reminiscent of its relative horseradish, makes a nice foil for any of a variety of curries.
Strip off and discard the tough stems from the mustard greens the wash the leaves well. Shake off excess water but do not over-dry. Chop or tear into small pieces. Set aside.
Put the tomato into boiling water for about 10 seconds. Cool under running cold water and remove the peel. Cut in half equatorially and squeeze out the seed. Chop the tomato flesh finely and set aside.
Chop the garlic in a food processor then add the onion and ginger paste. Pulse a few times to make a smooth puree.
Heat the oil in a large pot (I find that a wok works best) over medium-high heat. Fry the asafetida for a few seconds then add the onion mixture. Stir-fry for 3 to 5 minutes until golden brown.
Stir in the turmeric then add the mustard greens and turmeric. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the greens wilt and almost all the liquid has evaporated
Reduce heat to medium-low and stir in the garam masala, salt, and lime juice. Cook for a minute or so to allow the flavors to blend.
If pressed I would describe this dish as “Indian Fusion” because it combines flavors of the subcontinent with European techniques. The use of fruit in a savory sauce might strike some as unusual until they remembered that the most used sauce ingredient in the US, the tomato, is in fact a fruit. In Indian cuisine fruits like mango are a common ingredient. Indeed, the inspiration for my strawberry sauce was a recipe adapted from one for mangos. I made my sauce a bit spicy and tart but you can adjust the amount of chili and sugar to your taste. Incidentally, this is an excellent way to use up any strawberries that are a bit past their prime.
Serves 2 with extra sauce
Wash, stem, and halve the strawberries. Set aside
Heat the oil in a heavy sauce pan over medium-high heat. When hot but not smoking add the cumin, fennel, mustard, and kalonji seeds. When the mustard seeds begin to pop add the ginger. Fry, stirring constantly until the ginger begins to change color. Stir in the fenugreek, mirch, turmeric, and sliced chilies. Finally add the strawberries, turn the heat to low, and simmer, uncovered until it is thick and the fruit has softened and cooked through, about 30 minutes. Stir in the sugar. Taste and adjust the amount of salt and sugar to your taste.
If the chicken breasts are thick pound them down a bit to an even thickness. Season with salt, pepper, and the curry powder. Heat 1 tablespoon of oil and 1 tablespoon of butter in a non-stick frying pan set over medium high heat. When the fat is nearly smoking add the chicken breasts and sauté until just done, about 8 minutes, turning once halfway through. Set the chicken aside and cover loosely with a piece of aluminum foil. Pour off any excess fat in the pan then add the strawberry mixture. Cook, stirring constantly, until it thickens. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Off heat stir in 1 tablespoon of butter then return the chicken the pan to warm through.
Serve hot with basmati rice and raita or other Indian accompaniment.
In the US we tend to associate pancakes with breakfast but many cultures eat a variety of griddle cakes as a main meal. I came across the idea of scallion pancakes (for which I gladly credit Mark Bittman of the New York Times even though I completely changed his recipe) while looking for something to do with the abundance of these lovely onions from our garden. While Bittman used Chinese scallion cakes as a point of departure, I prepared a riff on Afghan scallion dumplings called aushak. These are easy to make and nicely filling. Do note, though, that they are decidedly and, perhaps shockingly to some, green.
Serves 2
Break up the ground meat into a non-stick skillet and brown over medium heat. Remove to a strainer to drain. Wipe out the skillet.
Bring a small pot of salted water to a boil. Wash and trim the scallions then separate the white parts from the green. Coarsely chop three quarters of the greens and finely chop the rest. Mince the white parts and set them aside.
Add the larger portion of scallion greens to the water and cook about 5 minutes or until tender. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid. Puree the cooked scallions in food processor, adding just enough of the cooking liquid to allow the machine to do its work. Add the egg, 1 tablespoon of oil, and 1 tablespoon of yoghurt to the scallion puree and pulse to combine. Set aside.
Heat a bit of oil in the skillet and fry the seeds until fragrant. Add the minced white parts of the scallions, the garlic, and ginger. Sauté until softened. Sprinkle on the ground spices and cook for another minute or so. Return the meat to the pan and mix with the onion mixture. Stir in the tomato sauce and ½ cup of the scallion cooking liquid. Turn the heat down and simmer gently while you prepare the pancakes, adding a bit of the cooking liquid if the meat dries out.
Prepare a griddle or large frying pan over medium-high heat. Combine the flours and baking powder in a medium bowl along with ¼ teaspoon of salt. Mix in the scallion puree and, if needed, enough of the cooking liquid to make a smooth batter. Lightly oil the hot griddle and make four medium-sized pancakes out of the batter. Turn when bubbles appear on the top. They should be nicely brown on both sides.
While the pancakes are cooking, stir ½ cup of yoghurt into the meat sauce and heat gently to warm through. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Serve the pancakes hot with the meat sauce and perhaps a dollop of yoghurt.
While we do not usually think of them as such, peas are a member of the Old World bean family, Fabaceae. And while we usually associate dried split peas with pea soup, they can be prepared in the same way as their cousins, lentils. Indeed, yellow split peas are a common dhal among the expatriate Indian communities in the Caribbean. I adapted this recipe from one calling for yellow mung beans and zucchini but since I had bought some lovely yellow summer squash at the farmers’ market I decided to reverse the colors and use green split peas instead. The trick to this dish is to get the peas tender but not mushy so you may need to experiment with the cooking time. Serve over basmati rice with a dollop of yoghurt for a satisfying vegetarian meal.
Serves 2
Rinse the peas well and put into saucepan with 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil and simmer until tender but not mushy, about 30 minutes. Drain, reserving cooking liquid, and set aside.
Pour the oil into a non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. When hot, sauté the squash, onions, garlic, ginger, and chilies for 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in the seeds, asafœtida, and mint. Continue to sauté for another 2 minutes then add the tomatoes and water. Turn the heat down to medium-low, cover, and simmer for about 5 minutes or until the squash are done to your liking.
Fold in the cooked peas and lemon juice. Leave over the fire for a minute or so to rewarm the peas. Serve immediately over rice garnished with a dollop of the yoghurt.
Literally “greens with potatoes” saag aloo, originated in the Punjab, the ancient region along the tributaries of the Indus River now divided between India and Pakistan. Traditionally it was made with mustard leaves but it can be made with spinach or other leafy greens. Since I found some beautiful rainbow chard at the farmers’ market I used that in my version. Some recipes call for the potatoes to be fried, others insist that they be boiled, while yet others just say “cooked.” Sometimes the greens are pureed and sometimes not. And sometimes the dish contains yoghurt, sometimes yoghurt and heavy cream, sometimes neither. I opted to boil my potatoes and, in order to highlight their lovely colors, not to puree the greens. Instead of adding yoghurt to the dish as I often do, I made raita—yoghurt with cucumbers and radish—as an accompaniment.
Note: you can use 1½ Tablespoons of Indian five spice, panch puran, in place of the individual seeds.
Serves 2
Boil the potato cubes for about 10 minutes or until nearly done. Drain and set aside.
Wash the chard well then trim any woody part off the bottom of the stems. Remove the stem and large central vein from the leaf. Slice the stems crosswise into ½-inch pieces. Tear the leaves into 2-inch pieces. Set the stem and leaves aside separately.
Heat the oil or ghee in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add the seeds and fry for a couple of minutes until fragrant. Add sliced onion and sauté until golden brown, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and continue to cook, stirring, for another minute. Finally sauté the chard stems for a couple minutes. Sprinkle in the turmeric and mirch, if using.
Put the potatoes into the pan and toss to coat. Pour in the water, turn the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes.
Add the chard leaves and re-cover for 2 or 3 minutes, until wilted. Uncover, check the salt, and turn the heat up a bit to evaporate any excess moisture.
Serve immediately over basmati rice accompanied with raita and Indian pickles.
How can you pass up a cookbook called Around the World in 450 Recipes (London: Hermes House, 2005), especially when it is less than $7.00 at your local mega-mart shoppers’ club? I especially like its British perspective on American food but more about that another time because today I am exploring food using coconut milk. I adapted this recipe from the chapter of the book titled “India” but I suspect it is actually Sri Lankan. By the way, I am not color blind; it is called green curry because it contains coriander leaves.
A note about coconut milk: it is not as some believe the liquid inside a coconut. Rather it is made from coconut flesh. Traditionally the grated coconut was soaked in hot water then the milk was laboriously extracted with a large mortar and pestle. I learned from a long-ago Sri Lankan roommate to make it in a blender using desiccated coconut—a recipe follows. You can buy coconut milk in a can but many Asians consider it too thick.
In a bowl large enough to hold the fish mix the turmeric, lime juice, and salt. Add the fish pieces and turn to coat evenly. Set aside to marinate for 15 minutes at room temperature or at least 30 minutes under refrigeration.
Put the onion, Serrano peppers, garlic, peanuts, and fennel seed into a food processor and pulse to break up. Add the thick coconut milk and puree to a thick paste, adding a bit more coconut milk if needed. Set aside.
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed, well-seasoned or non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat and, when hot, add the cumin seeds. Fry them, stirring often, until they become fragrant and begin to pop. Add the ground coriander and fry for about 30 seconds being careful not burn either of the spices. Pour the paste in all at once and stir to incorporate the browned spices. Fry, stirring, until it has thickened and browned a bit, about 5 minutes.
Stir in the thin coconut milk and the cilantro leaves. Cook for a further 3 or 4 minutes or until slightly thickened
Add the fish pieces to the pan, return the gravy to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes, turning the fish from time to time.
As suggested in the book, I served it with Pea and Mushroom Pilaf.
To make coconut milk:
Put 1 cup of unsweetened desiccated coconut into the jar of a blender (a food processor does not work as well) and pour in 1¼ cups boiling water. Allow to stand for a few minutes then blend on high speed for about 30 seconds. Pour into a strainer over a bowl. Squeeze as much liquid as you can out of the coconut. This is called thick coconut milk. Return the coconut to the blender and repeat the process with another 1¼ cup of boiling water. Strain into a second bowl. This is the thin coconut milk. If a recipe does not specify which to use I simply mix them together. To get coconut cream, let the thick milk sit until it separates. The cream is what forms on top.
Whatever you do not use right away will keep for a few days in the refrigerator. Warm a bit in the microwave to recombine before using.
The lowly sausage is, in my opinion, a thing of beauty. Nearly every culture makes them using an amazing variety of ingredients from animal blood to rice. Here in Binghamton we are fortunate to have available very good fresh Italian sausage made by Lupo’s of spiedie fame. This simple stew surrounds the spicy Italian sausage with vegetables making a filling one-dish meal perfect for a cold winter night.
Serve 2 to 4
Heat the oil in a Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the onions and carrots as sweat for about 5 minutes or until they begin to soften. Meanwhile brown the sausage in skillet to render out some of the fat. Add the tomatoes and garlic to the Dutch oven and cook for a couple of minutes than add the sausage, potatoes, stock, and oregano. Bring to a boil and simmer for about 45 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Add the green beans and continue simmering for another 10 minutes. Serve!
