In the kitchen, the leftover, not necessity, is the mother of invention. Last night while casting about for dinner ingredients I came up with: four mushrooms a bit past their prime, one frozen flounder filet, and a half dozen frozen shrimp. For reasons I cannot begin to explain risotto came to mind. What turned out was a thick creamy porridge-like dish reminiscent of a rich chowder, hence the whimsical name. Note that bay scallops would be a great substitute for, or addition to, the shrimp. You could, of course, eschew the bacon if you prefer a meat-free meal.
Accompanied by a green salad this recipe serves two generously.
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Ingredients |
|
|
|
60 grams |
2 ounces |
|
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Shrimp or bay scallops |
170 grams |
6 ounces |
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White fish filet in small pieces |
85 grams |
3 ounces |
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Olive oil |
As needed |
As needed |
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Bacon, one rasher, chopped |
30 grams |
1 ounce |
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Onion, one medium, diced |
140 grams |
5 ounces |
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Arborio rice |
240 grams |
8 ounces (1 cup) |
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Dry white wine or vermouth |
60 milliliters |
¼ cup |
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Shellfish or fish stock |
750 milliliters |
3 cups |
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Heavy cream (36%) |
30 milliliters |
2 Tablespoons |
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Salt and pepper |
To taste |
To taste |
Bring the stock to a simmer and keep warm.
Film the bottom of a saucepan with olive oil and sauté the mushrooms over medium heat until they become fragrant and release their liquid. Set aside. If needed, add a bit more oil to the pan and sauté the shrimp until just done, about 2 minutes. Set aside with mushrooms. Do the same with the fish.
In the same pan cook the bacon, stirring often, until it is almost crispy. Add the onion and sauté until translucent but not browned. Add the rice and fry, stirring constantly until chalky, about 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in the wine or vermouth and allow to mostly evaporate.
Begin adding the stock 60 milliliters (2 ounces) at a time stirring after each addition until it is nearly absorbed. Continue until the rice is creamy and just al dente. Stir in the cream then fold in the mushrooms and seafood. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
If you are like me your refrigerator tends to accumulate odds and ends of ingredients. Today I found half a can of diced tomatoes, about a cup of water I had steamed some shrimp over, a cup of thin coconut milk with a bit of green curry paste mixed in, a couple Thai eggplants, and four ounces of chicken breast. Foraging in the freezer turned up shrimp, bay scallops, and a hot pepper. And, of course, there were the usual pantry staples like onions, celery, garlic, rice, and pancetta or bacon. It all said to me: jambalaya!
Now jambalaya, whatever etymology of the word you chose to believe, is basically Creole paella. And like paella it is best built with a variety of meats, seafood, and vegetables. I say “built” advisedly because any recipe you see that has you removing things from a pan when you are making paella or jambalaya is simply wrong. Our foremothers’ kitchens were equipped with a large wooden table for food preparation and eating while cooking was done at the hearth. Do you think they really schlepped hot food back and forth to the table? Not likely. The trick is to add ingredients according to how long they need to cook. It takes a bit of practice but the result is worth the effort. By the way, do not be concerned if the rice sticks to the bottom of the pot a bit. That is the sign of a good jambalaya or paella.
Put a large enameled Dutch oven over medium high heat and render the pancetta or bacon until it begins to color and there is enough fat to sauté the onions. Turn the heat down to medium and add the onion, celery, and pepper. Sauté until the onions are medium brown, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for another minute or two.
Raise the heat a bit and add the chicken. Cook for a few minutes until it is no longer pink. Add the shrimp and toss until slightly pink then add the scallops and cook for another minute. Stir in the rice and cook, stirring constantly for a couple of minutes. Add the tomatoes and liquid. Mix well scraping any bits stuck to the bottom of the pan. Add the Thai eggplants and a good grind of black pepper. Bring to a boil, cover, and set over medium-low heat for 30 minutes.
Uncover the pot and fluff the jambalaya, scraping the bits stuck to the pot. Recover and let sit off heat for five minutes.
Rice was introduced to the Mediterranean by Arabic traders who brought it from India to Sicily and Spain. From there, mostly likely Spain, the grain found its way to the Po River valley in northern Italy where the best risotto rice is still produced. The basic technique for cooking the starchy Italian rice into something akin to a porridge has been documented in Venice as early as the 14th century but legend has the classic Risotto alla Milanese having been invented in 1574. In the regions of Piemonte, Lombardy, and Veneto risotto is often eaten as a primo piatto, or first course, while in the US it is usually served as a side dish or a main course. This recipe is definitely the last and makes a filling one dish meal.
A note on the stock: risotto is never made with water but always with stock or broth appropriate to the finished dish. This recipe starts with a simple homemade stock using shrimp shells and scallop tendons that I collect in a small bag in the freezer. If you do not have those ingredient you could use store-bought fish stock or even chicken broth but be careful when adding salt toward the end because those tend to be salty.
Put the shellfish bits—no need to thaw them first—into a saucepan along with the onion, carrot, celery, herbs, and water. Season with a good grind of pepper, bring to a boil then reduce heat to low and simmer, partially covered for at least 30 minutes. Strain into a bowl and keep hot. You should have about 4 cups of stock.
Into a heavy-bottomed 3-quart pot, such as a small Dutch oven, over medium heat pour enough olive oil to just cover the bottom. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring often, until the fat is rendered out and the cubes are brown and crispy about 4 minutes. Remove the pancetta to a small bowl using a slotted spoon to leave behind as much of the fat as possible. Set aside.
Pat the scallops dry with a kitchen towel and add them to the hot fat. Sauté for about 2 minutes or until done. Again using a slotted spoon remove to a bowl and set aside.
Adjust the amount of fat in the pan by adding a bit of olive oil if needed. Reduce the heat to medium-low and sauté the shallot for 2 minutes until softened but not browned. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant about another minute. Add the rice to the pot, raise the heat to medium, and fry, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until is becomes chalky, 2 or 3 minutes. 
Stir in the vermouth and allow to boil for 30 seconds then add two 2-ounce ladles of the stock. Stir constantly as the rice absorbs the liquid. When the stock is nearly completely absorbed but the rice has not dried out add more stock, a 2-ounce ladleful at a time, again stirring continuously. Repeat until the rice is just done. It should be creamy but have just a slight “bite” to it. The rice should have absorbed most of the four cups of stock. Stir in the reserved pancetta and scallops. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Do not be tempted to add cheese! Although meat and vegetable risotti often contain cheese, those made with fish or seafood NEVER do.
Whether this is at all authentically Provençal I have no idea since I pretty much made it up as I went along. For the gratin I used what is essentially an augmented tapenade, a Provençal garlic and olive spread. In a nod to more traditional gratin I did use a bit of butter in the topping but finished it off with olive oil to redeem myself. Those who do not need to cook gluten-free can replace the corn flakes with seasoned breadcrumbs (but you might be surprised at how good the cornflakes are). I served this simply with steamed broccoli and cauliflower. I find that these cousins in the cabbage family look and taste great together.
Since I said that I would pay more attention to technique this year, I call your attention to my use of a food processer in preparing this dish.
Serves 2
Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Scrub or peel the potatoes then slice using the 2 mm in the food processor. Boil until partially done, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool. Rinse and dry the food processor bowl.
Preheat the oven to 425° (400° for convection). Fit the food processor with the chopping blade. Add the corn flakes and thyme. Pulse until reduced the size of fine bread crumbs. Remove to a small bowl and wipe out the food processor bowl.
Put the garlic in the food processor and pulse a few times to chop. Add the shallot and parsley then chop them. Open the jar and scrape down the sides. Process the anchovies, olives, and butter. Add the wine then, with the processor running, drizzle in the olive oil. Put in the corn flake crumbs and pulse once or twice to combine.
Lightly oil the bottom of a gratin dish and layer in the potatoes, overlapping them. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange the scallops on top of the potatoes and season them as well. Finally spread the topping over the scallops and bake in the oven for 20 minutes. When done, place under the broiler for a couple of minutes to brown the top.
This is basically a stew with mashed potatoes spread over the top. I call it Irish Scallop Pie because I adapted the recipe from one on a Web site dedicated to Irish Culture, however it would not be out of place on the dining table of any Celtic or Norman people including my own forebears. The bacon, onion, and cabbage were my additions to the original recipe; the bacon because it is wonderful with scallops, the onions because almost anything is better with onions, and the cabbage to add some healthy green to pie. Incidentally, using a thick stew as a pie filling is a good technique for your repertoire. Other examples include shepard’s pie, chicken pot pie, steak and kidney pie, and what my mother called “cowboy pie,” shepard’s pie with beef instead of lamb.
Preheat the oven to 350°F (325°F for convection)
Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water until tender, 12 to 15 minutes. Drain, mash, and set aside.
Rinse the scallops and put into a small saucepan with the water. Bring to gentle boil and simmer for about 10 minutes, adding a minute or two if the scallops were frozen. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid, and set aside.
Cut the ½ cabbage into 4 pieces through the stem and remove the core. Cut each piece crosswise into 1-inch chunks. Set aside.
Film a saucepan with a bit of oil and render the bacon over medium heat. When there is enough fat in the pan to prevent from sticking, about 3 minutes, add the onion. Cook, stirring often, until softened then add the mushrooms. Continue to cook and stir until the mushrooms give up their liquid, about 5 minutes, adding a bit more oil or butter if needed. Add the cabbage and cook until it is soft, about another 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the flour and stir for a minute to coat. Pour in the sherry then add the reserved cooking liquid a bit at a time stirring to thicken between each addition. When the sauce has reached a nice consistency, add the cream and stir to combine. Finally stir in the scallops and cook for about a minute to warm through. Turn the filling into a lightly oiled 8-inch pie plate. Spread the mashed potatoes on top.
Bake until the top begins to brown, about 15 to 20 minutes.
When I made chicken in yellow mole the other day I made a double batch of sauce against a future dinner. Shrimp seemed like a good match for it but I only had one serving so I thawed some bay scallops as well. I make no claim to this being authentic but the flavors blended beautifully. Some simple white Mexican rice with lima beans rounded out a nice one-dish dinner.
Preheat the oven to 350° (325° for convection).
Heat 1 Tbsp. of oil in a heavy oven-proof pot with a tightly fitting lid over medium-high heat. Cook the onion, garlic, and rice in the hot oil for about 5 minutes or until the rice is chalky. Pour in the broth and bring to a boil. Add the lima beans, 1 tsp. of salt, and a good grind of black pepper. Cover and place in the oven for about 20 minutes.
When the rice is nearly done, heat the remaining 1 Tbsp. of oil in a large skillet and sprinkle in the crushed red pepper if using. Stir for a few seconds until fragrant then add the shellfish. Sauté until the shrimp are pink, about 2 or 3 minutes. Add the mole and cook until slightly thickened. Serve over the rice.
Big, luscious sea scallops are my favorite seafood. Although they may seem a bit pricey they are actually a pretty good value because they are 100% protein with virtually no waste. Where I live we are fortunate to sometimes get fresh scallops from Long Island. When they are available I buy extra and freeze them. Frozen scallops are not a bad alternative if you can not get fresh. Whether you are buying fresh or frozen, just make sure that you are buying so-called “dry” scallops that have not been treated with sodium tripolyphosphate, a preservative that adds water to the scallops. Besides the fact that with “wet” scallops you are paying for a lot of water, that water makes it impossible to sauté them properly. Scallops are delicate so be sure to err on the side of undercooking rather than overcooking. No one likes little rubber morsels.
A word about saffron: it is indeed the world’s most expensive spice, but a little goes a long way. Buy good quality saffron from a reliable shop or online source and indulge yourself is a dollars worth of luxury once in a while!
For this recipe, prepare the rice and let it cook for about 15 minutes before you start cooking the scallops. The rice can wait a few minutes; the scallops can’t.
Serves 2.
Rinse the rice well in several changes of cold water, drain, and set aside
Sprinkle the saffron threads onto the boiling water in a small bowl. Set aside to bloom for at least 10 minutes
Heat the butter in a medium pot with a tightly fitting lid over medium heat and sauté the onion until softened but not colored, about 3 minutes. Add the rice to the pan and sauté, stirring constantly, for another 2 minutes. Put the frozen spinach in the pot and stir until thawed, about 1 minute. Pour over the saffron and its soaking water then the stock, using it to rinse any saffron left in the bowl. Season with salt, bring to a boil, and then simmer over very low heat for 20 minutes. Check that the liquid has been absorbed. If not, return to the very low heat for a few more minutes. Fluff with a fork before serving.
Remove the tendons from the scallops if they are still on and pat them dry (save the tendons to make scallop butter). Lightly season with salt and pepper.
Melt half the butter in a frying pan over medium-high heat. (I prefer an uncoated pan for this recipe because I don’t have to worry about overheating it.) When the bubbling has subsided add the scallops and sauté for about 1 minute on each side. Remove to a plate.
Turn the heat down to medium and add the shallots to the pan. Sauté until softened, about 2 minutes. Add the wine, turn the heat to high, and boil it down until it starts to thicken. Off the heat, stir in the remaining butter. When melted return the scallops and any juices that have accumulated in the plate to the pan and toss for a few seconds to rewarm. Serve over the rice napped with the sauce.
This afternoon our local Wegman’s had a really nice selection of wild mushrooms. Really cultivated exotics, these mushrooms have a wonderful subtle range of flavors from woodsy to funky. The price per pound may seem high but a little goes a long ways. I like to buy several varieties and mix them. They are a great accompaniment for sea scallops which I sear quickly in a bit of butter and serve simply with deglazed pan juices and a bit of butter.
Rinse and pat dry the scallops. Season with salt and pepper.
Heat the butter in a skillet over high heat until it starts to brown. Put in the scallops in one layer. Cook for 2 minutes then turn over for another 2 minutes. Remove and keep warm.
Deglaze the pan with the wine then, off heat, stir in the butter, and serve over the scallops.
Give the mushrooms a quick rinse—contrary to what you may have heard it will not hurt them—and cut or tear them into coarse pieces. Heat ½ Tbsp. olive oil and ½ Tbsp. butter in a non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and the salt which will help them give up their moisture. Sauté, tossing or stirring regularly, until the mushrooms give up their moisture, about 8 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Quarter the leek lengthwise and slice thinly. Bring the chicken stock and water to a simmer. Heat 1 tsp. of olive oil and 1 tsp. of butter in a deep saucepan and sweat the leek for about 4 or 5 minutes until soft but not browned. Add the rice and stir for two minutes until well coated with the oil and slightly chalky. Pour in the vermouth and let the alcohol boil off. Using a 2 ounce ladle add about 1 cup of stock. Stir constantly until it is nearly absorbed. Continue to add stock 3 ounces at a time, stirring until nearly dry, until all the stock has been added and the rice is creamy and done but with a bit of “tooth.”
Stir in the mushrooms, taste, and adjust seasonings. When the mushrooms are warmed through, remove from heat and stir in 1 Tbsp. of butter.
Large, dry-pack sea scallops are simply superb. This Spanish recipe combines all the elements that bring out the best in them: smoky bacon, nutty sherry, and incomparable saffron. Be sure to have all the rest of the meal ready to plate before you start to cook the scallops; they wait for no man, or woman. I served these with stewed leeks with mint and steamed potatoes with chives.
Rinse the scallops and remove the tendons if still attached (do not discard them but freeze for making scallop butter). Dry them well on paper towels.Render the bacon in a skillet (not non-stick) until the bits are crispy and the fat begins to smoke. Remove the bacon and set aside.If needed as a bit of olive oil to the pan to make sure the bottom has about ⅛ inch of fat in it. When very hot put in the scallops and sear on one side for 2 minutes without moving them. Carefully turn them over—they may stick a bit—and cook on the second side for about one minute. Remove from the pan and pour off the excess fat.Turn the heat down to medium and pour in the sherry. Add the saffron and deglaze the pan scrapping up any browned bits. When the sherry is nearly evaporated turn the heat off then return the bacon and scallops to the pan. Toss a couple of times to coat the scallops and warm them up. Serve immediately topping the scallops with the bacon bits and sauce.
Peel the potatoes and cut them into ¼-inch slices using a mandolin if you have one. Put the potatoes in a sauté pan with a lid and add the chicken stock. Cover and steam gently until a small knife pierces the potatoes easily. Uncover, raise the heat, and let most of the liquid evaporate. Add the chives, butter, and seasonings.
This dish, loosely based on a recipe by Rick Bayless, is flavored with an achiote seasoning paste typical of the Yucatan. Quick and easy to assemble, it also can be made with shrimp or sea scallops. Serve it simply over plain white Mexican-style rice or achiote rice (recipe below) as I have done.
½ pound bay scallops
1 Tbsp. achiote seasoning paste (recipe follows)
2 Tbsp. lime juice
1 medium red or green bell pepper (I used half of each)
2 whole canned Roma tomatoes
Olive oil
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 bay leaves
1 Tbsp. parsley leaves, chopped
Water
Salt and pepper to taste
Dissolve the achiote paste in the lime juice and marinate the scallops while preparing the rest of the ingredients.
Char the skin of the pepper under the broiler or with a plumber’s torch, the latter being much faster. Wrap in kitchen towel for 5 to 10 minutes then rub off the charred skin. Cut into ½-inch squares. Coarsely chop the tomatoes and set aside with the peppers.
Film with oil a non-stick frying pan set over medium-high heat. When quite hot lift the scallops from the marinade with a slotted spoon and put them in the hot pan, reserving the marinade. Toss for about 2 minutes or until done. Remove the scallops from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Empty any liquid remaining in the pan into the reserved marinade.
Reduce the heat to medium and, if needed, add a bit more oil to the pan. Sauté the onions until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the peppers, tomatoes, bay leaves, parsley, the reserved marinade, and water as needed. Simmer until the peppers are nearly done, another 5 minutes then add the scallops and toss to combine. Cook for a couple more minutes to thicken the sauce a bit. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve over rice.
Achiote, or annatto, is sometimes called the saffron of Mexico for its rich yellow color when dissolved in oil. This paste, typical of the Yucatan, contains no oil so it is red rather than yellow. This is my simplified version of a recipe I got from Rick Bayless’s Mexican Kitchen.
1 Tbsp. achiote seeds
1 tsp. allspice berries
½ tsp. black peppercorns
1 tsp. dried oregano
2 Tbsp. cider vinegar
4 cloves garlic, peeled
Pinch of salt
Water as needed
Grind the achiote as finely as possible in a spice grinder of coffee grinder that you use for spices, not coffee. Place in a small bowl or, if you have one a micro chopper like the ones that work with a hand blender. Grind the rest of the spices together and add to the achiote along with the vinegar and salt. If working in a bowl, mash in the garlic with a fork to form a paste, adding a bit of water as needed. If using a micro chopper, just pulse until the garlic is chopped, add a bit of water and process to a paste. Store in the refrigerator.
¾ cup medium grain rice
Oil
1 Tbsp. achiote seasoning paste
1½ cup water or stock
Salt to taste
Heat a bit of oil in pan with a tightly-fitting lid. Fry the rice, stirring constantly until chalky, about 2 minutes. Stir the achiote paste into the water or stock and add to the rice. Season with salt, bring to a boil, cover, and cook over very low heat until done, about 20 minutes.
