Classic Louisiana jambalaya comes in two basic varieties, Creole and Cajun, the former being the original dish adapted from the paella of their native land by Spanish Creoles; the latter is probably a rustic variation on the more urban Creole jambalaya. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, the word jambalaya comes from a Provençal French word, jambalaia, meaning a mish-mash. Traditionally the Creole version contains tomatoes while the Cajun does not. And while Cajun jambalaya usually includes Andouille sausage, the Creole jambalaya recipe in The Picayune’s Creole Cook Book(New York: Random House, 1989) calls for chaurice which is similar to fresh chorizo or Portuguese chourico. Then there is the third, far less common version of Jambalaya, sometimes called white jambalaya, in which the meats and rice are cooked separately. Confused? Don’t worry, so is no less an authority than Emeril Lagasse who uses tomatoes in what he calls Cajun jambalaya.
In this recipe I have tried to recreate what I think the original jambalaya probably looked and tasted like by using ingredients that would have been available to colonial era Creoles to make what is basically paella. I used a heavy, deep cast iron skillet in place of a paella pan and Caribbean spices in place of saffron. The proportions of the various meats are not important; mine is a bit heavy on chicken only because I package chicken for the freezer in half-pound packages. I used chicken thighs because I think they stand up to other flavors better but you could certainly use breast meat if you prefer. The sausage I used is what Wegman’s sells as Andouille but which is more akin to chaurice than to the smoky Cajun sausage. While most jambalaya recipes build the dish by adding the ingredients on top of each other, I have opted to use the same technique I use for paella which is to cook the various components of the dish separately then combine them for the final cooking. And like paella I cook it uncovered.
Serves 2 generously with leftovers
Slice the sausage into ¼-inch rounds, dice the ham into ½-inch cubes, and cut the chicken into 1-inch cubes. Set each aside separately along with the peeled and deveined shrimp.
Put the chicken stock and shrimp shells into a small saucepan. Bring to a boil then let steep while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
Heat whichever fat you are using in a large cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. When nearly smoking, add the sausage and brown well. Remove to a bowl leaving as much fat behind as possible. Do the same with the ham putting it into the same bowl. Add the chicken and sauté until nicely browned and nearly cooked through. Remove to a second bowl. Finally cook the shrimp until pink but not overdone. Remove and set aside.
Reduce the heat to medium and, if needed, add more fat to the pot, perhaps a half a tablespoon. Add the onions, celery, and bell pepper. Sauté until well softened, about five to eight minutes, then add the tomatoes. Continue to cook, stirring often until most of the tomato liquid has evaporated. Add the chili, garlic, and spices. Stir to combine well and cook for a further five minutes or so.
Add the rice to the pot and mix to coat with the spice and vegetable mixture. Cook for about three minutes then strain in the stock. Sprinkle on about ½ teaspoon of salt, stir, scraping up any bits sticking to the bottom of the pot, and bring to a boil. Arrange firs the chicken over the rice, then the ham and sausage, and finally the shrimp. Press down gently into the stock but do not stir. Lower the heat and simmer gently, uncovered, until the broth is absorbed, about 20 minutes to one half hour. Taste and adjust salt.
Remove the pan from the heat, cover loosely with a clean kitchen towel, and let rest for five minutes.
Also known as tortilla española or tortilla de patatas, this classic Spanish dish it is eaten at any time of day, not just for breakfast, and is often served at room temperature. It makes a wonderful meatless dinner.
Note: The Spanish use a special lid to turn the tortilla. You can do the same by inverting a plate over the skillet, turning the tortilla onto it, then sliding it back into the pan. Or, you can simply pop the whole thing about 4 inches below a pre-heated broiler. The turning makes for a nicer presentation but it is fraught with potential for disaster.
Serves 2 as an entree
Scrub or peel the potatoes and slice ⅛-inch thick. Halve the onions lengthwise and slice crosswise the same thickness as the potatoes. Heat the oil in a large (12”) non-stick skillet. When hot, add the potatoes and onions. Stir gently to coat with oil. Cover and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring a few times.
Beat the eggs in a large bowl (I use a stick blender to get them nice and frothy). Season with salt and pepper. Using a slotted spoon, remove the onions and potatoes from the oil and fold into the eggs.
Pour about 2 Tbsp. of the oil into a 10” non-stick skillet and put over medium-high heat. When the oil is very hot add the egg, onion, and potato mixture. Shake gently to distribute evenly. Reduce the heat a bit and cook until the edges are set, about 2 or 3 minutes.
Turn the tortilla as described in the note above and return to medium heat for about 5 minutes. Test with a small knife or toothpick to make sure it is cooked through. Slide out onto a serving plate, garnish, and serve.
Sometimes I walk into the kitchen, take a cookbook off the shelf, start on a recipe, and end up with something significantly different. Tonight was one of those times. I started out intending to make Chicken with Chorizo and Sherry but ended up with this stew. As usual there was a reason I made the change made sense to me at least. In this case I found a Tobago Seasoning Pepper that I had thawed but not used. These relatives of habaneros, with all the flavor and little of the heat, are a beautiful red so it seemed a shame to use them with tomatoes that would diminish their splendor. And I could not see overwhelming that lovely flavor with the paprika that the original recipe specified. (If you do not have any Tobago Seasoning Peppers use another red chili of your choice.) Finally, it just made sense to add the potatoes and green beans to the casserole rather than cooking them separately.
Turn the oven on to 375° (350° for convection). Season the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Heat a bit of olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat and brown them on all sides then move to an oven-proof casserole with a lid. In the same pan cook the chorizo slices until done and add to the casserole with the chicken.
Adjust the fat in the pan, pouring some off or adding a bit of oil, then put in the onions. Sauté until softened, 4 minutes or so, then add the garlic and pepper. Cook another 2 minutes. Pour in the sherry and let the alcohol boil out for a few seconds before adding the stock. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes.
Meanwhile put the potatoes, green beans, and bay leaves into the casserole with the chicken and chorizo. Pour the sauce over all, cover, and place in the oven for 25 to 35 minutes, or until the potatoes are done. Remove the bay leaves and serve.
Stew, in my opinion, should not only taste good but look good as well. The choice of ingredients should encompass a range of compatible colors as well as flavors. And, of course, they should add up to a nutritionally balanced meal. This simple stew, loosely based on a Portuguese classic, meets all those criteria. You might notice that this dish is similar to a Portuguese chourico stew that I posted a while back. That is no accident because I used that recipe as a starting point. But in my quest to increase the ratio of vegetables to meat in my meals I have halved the amount of sausage and added carrots. The result is every bit as tasty and better for you and for the environment.
Film a suitable lidded pot (I use my trusty 3-quart enameled Dutch oven) with a bit of olive oil and, over medium-high heat, render the pancetta until brown and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon, leaving as much fat behind as possible, and set aside.
Add the chorizo to the pot and brown well on both sides. Remove and set aside. Pour off any excess fat.
Reduce the heat to medium and put the carrots and onions into the pot. Sweat gently until the onions just begin to color, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute or two. Pour in the sherry and deglaze the pan. Add the tomatoes, green beans, and potatoes then return the meats to the pot. Season with the salt, pimentón, and black pepper then add the water and bay leaf. Bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low and simmer for about 30 minutes. Uncover, raise the heat a bit, and cook for another 5 minutes to concentrate the broth.
This recipe that I adapted from Joanna Farrow & Jacqueline Clark, The Mediterranean Cookbook (New York: Lorenz Books, 2004) 203 is one of my standby favorites. It works well with whatever chicken parts and spicy sausage you have on hand. And it scales up easily if you have company coming. The one ingredient that you really should try to get is pimentón—Spanish smoked paprika. It comes in hot, picante, or sweet, dulce, varieties and is readily available online. Serve with Spanish-style potatoes such as patatas alioli, recipe below, or patatas bravas .
A note about the chorizo: this recipe is best made with Spanish chorizo or Portuguese chourico both of which are fermented and usually smoked. Mexican or fresh chorizo works as well but will give the dish a different flavor.
Preheat the oven to 375°. Coat the chicken pieces with paprika. Heat a Dutch over or other heavy, lidded, oven-proof pot medium-high heat then pour in about ⅛ inch of olive oil. When hot add the chicken pieces, working in batches if necessary, and brown on both sides. Remove leaving as much oil as possible behind.
Add the onions to the pot and sauté for about 3 minutes or until they just soften. Add the garlic and chorizo. Continue to fry for another 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, and sherry. Tuck the chicken pieces into the sauce, bring to a boil, cover, and bake in the oven for 30 to 45 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Patatas Alioli
These garlicky potato cubes are often served as tapas, the snacks that Spaniards are fond of eating between then of the work day and their traditionally late dinner. Catalan in origin, alioli or allioli is similar to its Provençal cousin aioli except that it does not contain egg. That makes it a bit difficult to emulsify so it is best made in a blender. These are usually served at room temperature.
First make the alioli. Peel the garlic cloves and put them into a blender jar along with ½ cup of the olive oil and the lemon juice. Pulse to chop the garlic then run on high until the sauce thickens. Pulse in salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
Scrub or peel the potatoes then cut into ½-inch cubes. Pour about ¼-inch of olive oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan over medium high heat. To check whether the oil is hot enough carefully place one piece of potato into it. If it immediately sizzles the oil is ready. Add the potatoes and cook, tossing carefully or stirring often until brown and crisp, about 10 minutes.
Remove the potatoes to a large bowl and season with a bit of salt. Add about half of the alioli and toss to combine, adding more sauce if needed.
Say tortilla to a North American and they will instantly think of a thin flat bread of corn or sometimes wheat. But say it to a Spaniard and they will envision something completely different: a thick cake of eggs and potatoes often flavored with a bit of meat or sausage. In Spain these are eaten warm or at room temperature for any meal of the day. I like to make one for dinner that is large enough that there will be leftovers for breakfast. One trick to making a successful tortilla: cook the chorizo, onion, and potato in a 12” skillet but make the finished tortilla in a 10” one so that it is nice and thick. And do not skimp on the olive oil or you will have undercooked potatoes. To keep the amount of fat under control I mix non-fat liquid eggs with whole eggs. You could all of one or the other if you prefer. If I have milk or cream on hand I add a bit but it is not essential.
Preheat oven to 350° and set a rack about 4 inches below broiler (for an electric oven). Put the olive oil into a 12” non-stick frying pan over medium heat and cook the chorizo for about 2 minutes. Add the onion and cook until soft but not colored, about 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, season with salt and a good grind of black pepper, and toss or stir to combine. Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Set aside to cool a bit.
Combine the eggs, liquid eggs, and cream in a large bowl. Beat to a froth—I use a stick blender—then fold in the potato mixture. Film a 10”-inch oven proof, non-stick skillet with olive oil and turn the potato/egg mixture into it. Cook over medium-high heat for a few minutes until the edges begin to set. Place in the oven and bake for 15 minutes. Switch the oven to broil and continue cooking for another 10 minutes or until the top is nicely browned. Let sit for a few minutes before sliding onto a large plate to serve.
There are few things that I enjoy more than fixing dinner for surprise guests so when my sister and niece called to say that they were on their way from Long Island back to Rochester and could stop in about 2 hours later I leapt into action. What to make, I thought. Well, there is a pork loin roast in the freezer and about a dozen Cornish game hens. I settled on the game hens. My first thought was to thaw them in cold water then split and roast them. After an hour in the cold water it was clear that they would never be ready in time. That left thawing in the microwave. The problem with that is that parts of the birds, especially the wings, come out cooked. So I decided to make a casserole instead. The recipe I adapted from Joanna Farrow & Jacqueline Clark, The Mediterranean Cookbook (New York: Lorenz Books, 2004). When the chickens thawed I removed the giblets, cut out the back and wing tips, then quartered them. The giblets went into a stock pot while the backs and wing tips went into my stock parts bag in the freezer. And this is how I cooked them. I served the casserole simply with Spanish potatoes.
Serves 4
Preheat the oven to 375°. Coat the chicken pieces with paprika. Heat a skillet over medium-high heat then pour in about ⅛ inch of olive oil. When hot add the chicken pieces, working in batches, and brown on both sides. Remove to an oven-proof casserole leaving as much oil as possible behind.
Fry the onions in the skillet for about 3 minutes or until just soften. Add the garlic and chourico and continue to fry for another 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, and sherry. Bring to a boil and pour over the chicken in the casserole. Deglaze with pan with a bit of water or chicken stock and add to the casserole. Cover and bake in the oven for 45 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Serve immediately.
Were I a celebrity chef I might well call this “deconstructed paella;” but I’m not so I won’t. I have simply combined a classic Spanish tapa with a classic Spanish rice dish. But there is a twist. To add color and flavor I have added Tobago seasoning pepper to the rice. These peppers taste a lot like habaneros that are of the same species but without most of the heat—if you remember to remove the seeds and placenta (membrane). The red onion is also not traditionally Spanish either but I did not have any Spanish onions on hand. All of the vegetables were frozen; I generally avoid fresh vegetables in the winter because, having been trucked or flown in from warmer climes, they usually have little flavor (to say nothing of their carbon footprint!). The best, of course, are the ones I bought at the local farmers’ market and froze myself. One ingredient that may be unfamiliar is pimentón, or Spanish smoked paprika. You may not find it in your local supermarket but it is readily available online. It comes in picante (hot) and dolce (sweet) varieties. For the garlic shrimp I recommend the hot but if all you can find is the sweet just add a bit of cayenne. You could use ordinary paprika but the result will just not be the same. Note that cooking paella the traditional way—uncovered on the stovetop—is tricky. Unless you have mastered the technique I suggest that if you are having company you cover it with foil and bake in 350° oven instead.
Serves 2
Thaw the green beans is cold water then blanch in boiling water for about 1 minute. Refresh in cold water, drain, and set aside.
Put the saffron into a small bowl and cover with the 2 Tbsp. of hot water and set aside to bloom.
Peel and devein the shrimp leaving the tail on. Rinse, dry, and set aside.
Heat a small paella pan or fry pan over medium-low heat and pour in enough oil to barely cover the bottom. When the oil is hot add the onion and fry, stirring frequently, until softened, about 2 or 3 minutes. Add the garlic and continue cooking until it begins to turn golden, another 5 minutes. Add the rice and stir for 2 minutes. Put in the peppers and stir for another minute. Pour on half of the water, then the saffron, and finally use the other half of the water to rinse the saffron bowl into the rice. Season with salt and pepper. Raise the heat to bring to a boil then set over medium-low heat, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Fold in the green beans and continue to cook with preparing the shrimp.
Heat a non-reactive, preferable stainless steel, frying pan over medium high heat. Add enough olive oil to just cover the bottom then put in the crushed red pepper and sliced garlic. Cook for 2 minutes or until very fragrant. Add the shrimp and cook for about 2 or 3 minutes per side. Pour in the lemon juice and sherry then turn up the heat to boil off most of the moisture. Sprinkle on the pimento then season with salt and pepper to taste. Turn onto the paella and server immediately.
Also known as tortilla española, this classic Spanish dish is a type of omelet resembling a quiche but without a crust. And like a quiche it is eaten at any time of day, not just for breakfast. Traditionally the potatoes are cooked slowly in abundant olive oil—almost poached. I reduce the oil considerably. Also, in Spain the tortilla is cooked entirely on the stove top being turned using a special lid. I finish it under the broiler. Finally, I use a combination of whole eggs and non-fat liquid eggs. You could use all of either one. Unless you have an ungracious guest from Andalusia no one is likely to object.
Serves 2 to 4
Scrub or peel the potatoes and slice ⅛-inch thick. Halve the onions lengthwise and slice thinly crosswise. Over medium heat the oil in an oven-proof non-stick skillet. When hot, add the potatoes and onions. Stir gently to coat with oil. Cover and cook for about 20 minutes, stirring a few times.
Beat the eggs in a large bowl (I use a stick blender to get them nice and frothy). Season with salt and pepper. Fold the onions and potatoes into the eggs.
Preheat the broiler. Reheat the skillet over medium-high heat. If needed add a bit of olive oil. Pour in the egg mixture and shake gently to smooth out. Cook for about 4 minutes or until the edges of the tortilla have set. Place 4 inches below the broiler element for about 5 minutes. Test with a small knife or toothpick to make sure it is cooked through.
This lovely Spanish dish is redolent of paprika and sherry. It is a bit spicy but not aggressively so. Served with roasted potatoes it makes a wonderful meal for a cold night. I adapted this recipe from The Mediterranean Cookbook (NY: Lorenz Books, 2001).
Preheat the oven to 375°. Mix the pimentón and paprika together in a small bowl and sprinkle over both sides of the chicken thighs. Heat the olive oil in frying pan, preferably non-stick, over medium-high heat. Add the chicken and brown well, about 2 minutes per side. Remove to an oven-proof casserole with a lid.
In the same pan, sauté the onion, adding a bit more olive oil if needed, until softened, about 3 minutes. Add the sausage and garlic. Continue sautéing for a couple minutes until the garlic is fragrant. Add the tomatoes, bay leaves, and sherry to the pan, toss to combine, bring to a boil, and pour over the chicken in the casserole. Bake in the oven for about 45 minutes.
